

You love your grandma’s homemade sandwich bread recipe, but wish it was just a bit more tender and less crumbly. You’ve found a recipe online for cinnamon rolls but are bummed at how quickly they harden up and become dry once they’re out of the oven. Want to make your favorite yeast bread and rolls reliably soft and tender? Tangzhong is the solution.
With origins in Japan's yukone (or yudane), tangzhong is a yeast bread technique popularized across Asia by Taiwanese cookbook author Yvonne Chen. It involves cooking a portion of the flour and liquid in the recipe into a thick slurry prior to adding the remaining ingredients, resulting in soft, fluffy bread.
This pre-cooking accomplishes two positive things: it makes bread or rolls softer and more tender, and extends their shelf life. For the science behind this, read our Introduction to tangzhong.
If you’ve tried our Japanese Milk Bread Rolls or Soft Cinnamon Rolls, you know how deliciously tender they are. And you’ve probably thought about trying tangzhong with some of your own favorite yeast recipes. Softer, moister dinner rolls? Nothing wrong with that.
So how, exactly, do you convert a standard yeast bread recipe to use tangzhong?
Thoughtfully.
Start by managing your expectations. Do you really want to pair tangzhong (soft, tender bread) with crusty baguettes or chewy bagels? That would be like making potato chips in a steamer: it goes against the nature of the beast.
It's important to choose an appropriate recipe: a yeast bread that’s inherently soft, tender, and light. Be it a white sandwich loaf or buttery dinner rolls, tangzhong will enhance bread’s texture, and keep it fresher longer.
Once you've chosen a recipe, you need to determine its hydration: the percentage of water (or other liquid) compared to flour, by weight. A dough’s hydration determines how stiff or soft it’ll be, and also influences how vigorously it rises. Finished loaves with low hydration are usually dense and dry; those with higher hydration, soft and moist.
To take a simple example, a recipe that includes 75g of water and 100g of flour has a hydration of 75%. Or here’s an example in American weights: a recipe using 1 cup water (8 ounces) and 3 cups flour (12 3/4 ounces) has a hydration of 63% (8 divided by 12 3/4).
Don’t have a scale? I highly recommend you acquire one, because trying the tangzhong technique without a scale requires quite a lot of extra effort converting volume to weight.
And by the way, if you're following an older recipe that most likely doesn't include ingredient weights, see our handy ingredients weight chart.
The typical sandwich bread or dinner roll recipe (like these Golden Pull-Apart Butter Buns) has a hydration level of around 60% to 65%.
But when you’re using the tangzhong method, you want your recipe’s hydration to be about 75%.
Why? Because when using tangzhong, some of the liquid in the dough is “trapped” by the pre-cooked slurry (the tangzhong), and thus plays no part in the dough’s texture; as far as hydration is concerned, it’s as if that liquid isn’t even there.
Let’s say your original recipe’s hydration is 60%. When you transfer some of its liquid to the tangzhong, the resulting dough will behave as if its hydration is much lower.
The dough will be stiff and dry, which can inhibit its rise and lead to dense, heavy bread.
So in order to wind up with dough that’s as soft and smooth as the original, you need to add more liquid initially.
Let’s convert this popular recipe to use tangzhong and see how it goes.
1 cup (227g) milk
2 tablespoons (28g) butter
2 teaspoons instant yeast
2 tablespoons (25g) sugar
1 1/4 teaspoons salt
3 cups (361g) King Arthur Unbleached All-Purpose Flour
What’s this dough’s hydration? 227g (weight of milk) divided by 361g (weight of flour) = 63% hydration.
But remember, in order to use tangzhong you want your hydration to be 75%: the liquid should equal 75% of the weight of the flour.
Do your arithmetic: 361g x .75 = 271g. So you want the amount of milk in the recipe to be 271g, not 227g. Result? You’ll add 44g additional milk to your recipe.
Let’s see how this works. I’ll make the recipe three ways:
(A), as written, with a hydration of 63%;
(B), using tangzhong without increasing the recipe’s hydration to 75%;
(C), using tangzhong after increasing the recipe’s hydration to 75% by adding 44g milk.
First I make the tangzhong slurry, the cooked mixture of flour and liquid. A standard slurry uses between 5% and 10% of the flour in the recipe and is composed of one part flour to five parts liquid (by weight).
I’ve now made this standard slurry often enough that this is what I use for any yeast recipe calling for between 3 and 4 cups of flour: 3 tablespoons (23g) of the flour in the recipe + 1/2 cup (113g) of the liquid.
Remember, you're using flour and liquid from the recipe, not adding extra flour and liquid! Take that into account when you're measuring out the remaining flour and liquid for the dough.
For each of the test loaves using the slurry (B and C), I combine 23g of the recipe’s flour with 115g of the recipe’s milk. I cook the mixture over medium heat until it thickens, and put it into the mixing bowl to cool down a bit while I assemble the other ingredients.
Next, I mix and knead the three doughs. (A), the control, is soft and smooth; (B), with the slurry but without any added milk, stiff and gnarly; and (C), with the slurry and added milk, very similar to (A), perhaps a bit softer.
I let the doughs rise, then shape them into loaves and place each in an unlidded 9" pain de mie pan (my loaf pan of choice). I let the loaves rise, then bake them.
Look at the difference! (A), the original recipe, and (C), the added milk/slurry recipe, (C), rise beautifully. (B), the recipe using the slurry but without any added milk, rises much less.
It’s impossible to photograph texture and moistness, but right out of the oven (C) is slightly moister and more tender than the original loaf (A). After a few days, (C), the loaf with the slurry, is still nice and fresh; while the original loaf is definitely showing signs of staleness.
Bottom line: By bringing your favorite sandwich bread or dinner roll recipe to 75% hydration and then using tangzhong in the dough, you’ll make bread that’s softer, lighter, more tender, and with longer shelf life than the original.
Once you feel comfortable with the basics of tangzhong, you can try fine-tuning your hydration math. While water is obviously 100% water, there may be other ingredients in your dough that are adding to its hydration: for instance, eggs or honey.
This fine-tuning is potentially only necessary in recipes that use a lot of butter and/or eggs, like brioche; or recipes with a significant amount of liquid sweetener.
Truthfully, most of my colleagues here at King Arthur consider simply the main liquid and flour when assessing a recipe's hydration. Because almost all of the time, that level of simplicity is fine: If your recipe includes just 2 tablespoons of butter, its minuscule water content isn't going to make or break your bread. Still, once you’ve got the calculator out, it’s fun to take this extra step towards accuracy.
If you want to drill down with hydration, here’s a list of common yeast bread ingredients and their percentage of water:
Milk: 87% water
Large eggs: 74% water (1 large shelled egg weighs 50g)
Liquid sweeteners (e.g., honey): 17% water
American-style butter: 16% water
Vegetable oil: 0% water (100% fat)
Use the information above to calculate how many grams of water are in any of these "rogue" ingredients in your recipe. Then add them to the total grams of the main liquid before calculating hydration.
A great variety of factors come into play when you're baking yeast bread, and some of these affect hydration. Keep the following in mind as you experiment with tangzhong:
Mashed potatoes or other mashed fruits/vegetables (pumpkin, squash) can affect dough's hydration. There's no way to judge their effect ahead of time; it's best to add them, then adjust dough's consistency with additional flour if necessary.
Hot/humid weather increases flour's moisture content; cold, dry weather makes flour drier. You'll typically use a bit less liquid in yeast recipes in summer, a bit more in winter; see our blog post, Winter to summer yeast baking.
Sourdough starter can be thick and viscous, quite thin, or anything in between. As with mashed vegetables, adjust the mixed dough's consistency as needed.
Have you tried baking yeast bread or rolls using the tangzhong technique yet? If so, how did you like the results? Please add your thoughts in comments, below.
For more on tangzhong:
Introduction to tangzhong: an intriguing technique for softer yeast bread and rolls
February 20, 2023 at 2:22pm
In reply to The original Favorite… by Carol (not verified)
Hi Carol, the tangzhong version of this recipe (which can be found in the Tips From Our Bakers section on the recipe page) instructs you to increase the milk amount to 1 cup plus 3 tablespoons (270g), out of this 113g of the milk will be used for the tangzhong starter, and this does not need to be simmered. The remaining 157g of milk can be simmered and poured over the butter according to the recipe.
February 5, 2023 at 3:21pm
Thank you for this article, it's very explanatory.
A question though, I noticed the hydration on your cinnamon rolls is not up to 75% but you use a tangzhong method there. Is this an exception to the rule?
February 6, 2023 at 2:35pm
In reply to Thank you for this article,… by Chioma (not verified)
Hi Chioma, both our Perfectly Pillowy Cinnamon Roll recipe and our Soft Cinnamon Roll recipe include more than 75% hydration, if you count the liquid contribution from the eggs and butter. Keep in mind that we're talking about the total hydration (which includes the flour/liquid that composes the tangzhong starter as well). I counted the milk as 100% hydration, since this is the main liquid in these recipes.
February 3, 2023 at 5:06am
What is your favorite whole wheat recipe using the tangzhong method?
February 3, 2023 at 2:44pm
In reply to What is your favorite whole… by Bridget Gratton (not verified)
Hi Bridget, we have this Classic 100% Whole Wheat Bread Recipe that you can incorporate the tangzhong method into. We have instructions in the "Tips from our Bakers" at the bottom of the recipe. Happy Baking!
December 21, 2022 at 4:14pm
Hello, to make sure I understand before making it , the flour used in Tangzhong is taken from the recipe flour? And the liquid too?
December 26, 2022 at 4:44pm
In reply to Hello, to make sure I… by Khulood (not verified)
Hi Khulood, yes, the flour and liquid amounts for the tangzhong starter are taken from the recipe flour and liquid amounts, although PJ has found that it works best to increase the hydration of the recipe to 75% when incorporating a tangzhong starter.
November 27, 2022 at 1:22pm
Very interesting
I’ve made shokupan and loved the texture and wondered why using some of my flour and water for a tangzhong wasn’t helpful for my ‘everyday’ bread.
This uses 1# bread flour,1 c oatmeal,1 egg,10 oz water,1 oz oil,1 1/2 oz brown sugar.
I’m not sure how to calculate hydration with the oatmeal?
Any suggestion to make this the 75% would be appreciated,thank you!
December 4, 2022 at 10:48am
In reply to Very interesting I’ve made… by Anita Wetzbarger (not verified)
Hi Anita, I would count the cup of oats (89g) as part of the flour content for these purposes, so that brings the hydration of your recipe to about 59%. To bring your recipe up to 75% hydration you would need to add about 86g of liquid. By way of comparison, this recipe sounds fairly similar, so perhaps it could be helpful as you adapt your recipe.
November 23, 2022 at 8:29pm
Im still not understanding how much tangzhong I should add to a recipe that calls for 4 1/2 to 4 3/4 flour, 4 eggs and 3/4 milk? How much tangzhong and what do I increase in the recipe?
Pagination