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To make the dough: Weigh your flour; or measure it by gently spooning it into a cup, then sweeping off any excess. Mix all of the ingredients together until the dough pulls away from the sides of the bowl. Turn the dough out onto a floured surface to knead.
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Knead the dough until it's smooth and supple, adding more water or flour as needed.
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Place the dough in a bowl. Cover the bowl and allow the dough to rise for 1 hour, or until it's puffy.
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Gently press the dough down, and turn it out onto a lightly floured surface. Alternatively, you can leave dough in the bowl and let it rise again, for about half the time of the initial rising; this will produce a finer-grained product.
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To make the calzones: Cut your dough into 2 pieces. Roll out each piece into a 10" x 14" rectangle. Spread a thin layer of sauce on first. Then layer it with your choice of ingredients.
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Starting with the long edge, roll the dough around the filling jelly-roll style. Pinch the seam and ends together very tightly and place the roll on a parchment-lined baking sheet.
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Cover the calzone with a damp towel or plastic wrap (grease the underside of it so it won't stick to the dough). Let it rise for 45 minutes to an hour.
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Preheat your oven to 450°F. To make the crust crunchy, preheat a metal roasting pan on the oven bottom.
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To make the topping: Whisk together the egg and water to make a thin glaze.
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Slash the tops of the loaves,then brush with the egg wash and sprinkle with sesame or poppy seeds. Just before you put the calzone in the oven, pour 3 to 4 cups of water into the roasting pan.
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Bake for 15 minutes at 450°F. Turn the heat down to 400°F and continue baking for a further 15 minutes, or until the crust is golden brown.
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To serve, allow the calzone to cool and "set" for 10 or 15 minutes. Then cut it in slices.
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For traveling, allow it to cool completely, slice, and wrap in an airtight bag. Store in the refrigerator for up to 3 days, and reheat briefly before serving.
