Here in New York City, I have used Northern Spys from the farmers market with delicious results. But I discovered Rhode Island Greenings early one season and loved how they baked: they have old-fashioned apple flavor—tangy, so sugar balances but doesn't over-sweeten; the slices held their their shape softly without the dreaded crunchy bite; and they're big, so in preparation, fewer cores, more flesh! However, as I say, they appear here early in the season only. If I blink, I miss them.

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